In the early seventies, between Turin and the Gran Paradiso, the mountains began to be populated by strange characters, light years away from the traditional figures of classic mountaineering. These new climbers despised the heroic myth of the hard and pure climber, the ritual of the summit at all costs, of the “struggle with the Alps”. In the small world of mountaineering it is an epochal break that leads to the birth of a real rebel movement, the Nuovo Mattino, which derives its cultural references from 1968.
It is led by Gian Piero Motti from Turin, a cultured and brilliant young man, an excellent climber and author of controversial articles. The protesters seek their elsewhere on the rock face, a truth complementary but not conflictual with the urban experience. They refuse traditional climbing clothes and replace them with jeans and a T-shirt.
They open routes with symbolic names: Ithaca in the sun, Long way of the Comanches, The way of the Revolution. Inspired by the myth of Californian climbing, they find splendid gneiss rock faces just a few minutes from the Orco Valley road and fancifully call them Caporal and Sergeant, in response to the legendary Captain of the Yosemite Valley. But between the seventies and eighties of the twentieth century events brutally put an end to the renaissance of Italian climbing. Was it inevitable? Why did it happen? The stories in this book tell of the transition from the Nuovo Mattino utopia to the materiality of sports performance, from the uncertainty of the dream to the sirens of the market. They design the metaphor of Italian society and of what we are today.
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